Thanksgiving Here, Hajj There

Faith's Throngs: Pilgrims are filling the Great Mosque in Mecca. (Muhannad Fala'ah/Getty Images)

I really shouldn't say here: it presumes that all readers of this blog are geographically bound to the United States, which isn't the case. I like to think that the sun never sets on readers of Middle East Issues.

But you get the point. Today marks the single-most universal American holiday of the Gregorian calendar. Those who may not celebrate Christmas or Easter or mark occasions like Veterans or Memorial Day are more likely to gather around a table today and break bread and turkey legs. It's a rite of Americanness even (if not especially) new immigrants happily devour. (July 4's Independence Day? It's more about shopping, movies and grilling than ritual.)

Islam is in many ways the definition of universalism, at least in the ideal: Muslims (on whom the sun truly never sets, though you could say that about any number of other religions) define themselves, wherever they are, through observance of the five pillars of Islam. The fifth and most visually arresting, the hajj, or pilgrimage to Mecca, began yesterday and will continue until Nov. 30. Making the pilgrimage to Mecca at least once in a lifetime is every Muslim's duty, although those who don't make it are spared the wrath of Khan: Islam is very understanding in those ways. The hajj is more of a recommendation than an absolute requirement, even if Saudi clerics like to think it's an essential (Saudi clerics and the Saudi tourism bureau have a lot in common when it comes to interpretations of Islamic duties).

The first day didn't go terribly well for many of 2 million to 3 million pilgrims expected to participate. Saudi Arabia, especially the coastal city of Jeddah, was hit by unusually torrential rains on Wednesday. At least 77 people were killed. The sun was back out today, enabling a more pleasant Tour-de-Hajj, which involves starting off with prayers in the tent cities of Mina, just east of Mecca, then walking the Plain of Arafat to the Mount of Mercy before repairing to the Plain of Muzdalifah for a night of prayer and pebble-gathering: on the third day, pilgrims return to Mina and throw their pebbles at pillars symbolizing Satanic temptations before the hajj's poster-scene--the circling, seven times, of the Kaaba inside the Grand Mosque in Mecca proper.

Overall numbers for the 2009 hajj are down this year as many would-be pilgrims, Saudi locals especially, are staying home for fear of catching the swine flu. The rains haven't helped. The Saudi Arab News put a good face on it all though, as in this but from Amjad Parker's "Hajj Reflections Day One":

It was not only the pilgrims that were in high spirits. Security forces generally maintained a calm and relaxed demeanor as they directed the river of people toward Mina. One guard, Mohammed Rashed, suggested a reason for their high spirits was down to the substantial benefits the Saudi government offers for keeping the peace during important occasions such as Haj. An amiable character, Rashed told Arab News that he had been working as an electrician and was being paid a minimal salary. He claimed the situation has changed after he switched careers.

"I now get paid three times as much as in my previous job. I am also a weapons trainer and the insurance benefits are very good," he said. When asked about other reasons why he chose to join the security forces he replied: "It is my duty to serve the guests of God and help them."

My colleague Huda, About's Islam Guide, is keeping up with the hajj and provides rich background and history on the ritual.

See Also:

• What is the Hajj?
• The Five Pillars of Islam
• The Day of Arafat
• What Is Ihram?
• Masked Pilgrims
• Malcolm X in Mecca